How to Make the Ancient Arcot Nawabi Biryani at Home

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History & Story

There are some recipes that don’t just feed the stomach, but whisper history with every bite.
This Arcot Nawabi Vegetable Biryani is one such heirloom—once a royal treat in the homes of Arcot’s Nawabs, where even humble vegetables were celebrated with grandeur.

There are some recipes that don’t just feed the stomach, but whisper history with every bite.
This Arcot Nawabi Vegetable Biryani / Saiva biryani is one such heirloom—once a royal treat in the homes of Arcot’s Nawabs, where even humble vegetables were celebrated with grandeur.

I first came across the Arcot Nawabi Saiva Biryani while hearing elders share recipes reserved for royal fasting days. This wasn’t the usual loud, masala-heavy biryani; it was a biryani of quiet richness — made with ridge gourd, bottle gourd, and raw banana, bound together by a silky melon seed paste, which replaces meat, cream, or cashew with something far more elegant. The homemade Arcot-style garam masala is the very soul of this biryani . It’s delicate, aromatic blend is what sets this dish apart.

In the royal kitchens of Arcot, where Saiva Nawabs abstained from meat during certain rituals, vegetables weren’t an afterthought. They were chosen intentionally, for texture, elegance, and purity. This recipe has been passed down quietly, almost forgotten in modern kitchens, until today. After hearing this I really wanted to give it a try not just to relish it but to relive the taste, freshness and goodness it contained. I used yam and raw banana in this recipe — and trust me, their texture and richness came remarkably close to the feel of meat, without losing the soul of a vegetarian dish. I had little patience while photographing this dish — the irresistible aroma kept pulling me away from the lens! You might notice the pictures aren’t quite up to my usual standard, but trust me, the flavors made up for it. Let’s get to the making of Arcot Saiva Biryani!

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Why These Vegetables Were Chosen

Ridge Gourd: Soft, absorbs masala beautifully, adds sweetness.
Bottle Gourd: Light, fluffy, keeps the biryani moist and digestible.
Raw Banana: Adds bite, structure, and richness, mimicking meat texture.

Alternates

You can swap in ash gourd, yam, or tender plantain stem if ridge gourd or bottle gourd aren’t available.

Ingredients & Their Role

Ingredient	Role
Ghee	Royal richness.
Seeraga samba rice	Lends delicate aroma, absorbs spices beautifully.
Ridge gourd	Softness, sweetness.
Bottle gourd	Fluffy lightness.
Raw banana	Firm bite.
Melon seeds	Ground into paste for silkiness and richness.
Fennel seeds	Sweet, aniseed aroma.
Poppy seeds (optional)	Mild nutty depth.
Whole spices (clove, cinnamon, cardamom, bay leaf, star anise)	Fragrant royal notes.
Onions, mint, coriander	Base flavor layers.
Biryani masala, turmeric	Gentle heat and color.

Key Features

• No tomato — true to pre-colonial Arcot kitchens
• Flavored with golden onions, yogurt, fresh herbs, whole spices
• Vegetables: yam, raw banana, ridge gourd — hearty, festive, vegetarian

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History Note:

Unlike the Mughal Nawabs of North India, the Arcot Nawabs embraced local traditions, ingredients, and South Indian rice varieties like seeraga samba, blending them with refined Persianate cooking styles.

How to Make the Ancient Arcot Nawabi Biryani at Home

Recipe by Sandhya Riyaz

5.0 from 3 votes

Course: Main Course, Festive Rice DishCuisine: South Indian Royal / NawabiDifficulty: Easy

Servings

servings

Prep time

minutes

Cooking time

minutes

A delicate, vegetarian Arcot Nawabi biryani made with seeraga samba rice, yam, and raw banana, enriched by homemade garam masala — reviving the forgotten royal flavors of South India.

Ingredients for rice

2 cups, Seeraga samba rice (soaked 20 mins)
8 cups Water (to boil)
2 tablespoons, Ghee
Salt – to taste
Vegetables (cubed)
1⁄2 cup Yam
1 nos. Raw banana
1⁄2 cup Ridge gourd or bottle gourd (optional)
Ingredients for Masala Base
2 nos, Onion (large, thinly sliced golden sautéed)
1 tablespoon, Ginger-garlic paste
4 nos. Green chili (slit)
1⁄2 cup Yogurt/ Curd (whisked)
1⁄4 teaspoon, Turmeric powder
2 tablespoon, Melond seeds
1⁄4 cup Mint leaves
1⁄4 cup Coriander leaves
1 tablepoon, Lemon juice
Salt – to taste
Spices
1 nos. Bay leaf
1 small stick Cinnamon
3 nos. Cloves
2 pods Cardamom
1 strand Mace
1 tablespoon, Homemade Arcot Garam Masala
1 tablespoon, Ghee
2 tablespoon, Oil
Ingredients for Homemade Arcot-Style Mild Garam Masala (Makes ~3 tbsp)
8 nos. Cloves
6 pods, Green cardamom
1 pod, Black cardamom
1 inch stick, Ceylon cinnamon
2 nos. Bay leaf
1 flower strand Mace
1⁄4 of a whole nutmeg Nutmeg ( a pinch grated)
1⁄2 teaspoon, Black peppercorns
1⁄2 teaspoon, Fennel seeds (optional)

Directions to make Arcot-Style Mild Garam Masala

Dry roast all spices on low flame for 1–2 minutes until aromatic (do not burn).
Let cool completely.
Grind to a fine powder using a dry spice blender or stone grinder.
Store in an airtight jar away from heat and sunlight.
Directions to make Ancient Arcot Nawabi Biryani
Soak and cook the rice:
Wash and soak seeraga samba rice for 20 minutes. Add 8 cups water in a pan, ghee and salt. Add soaked rice Cook seeraga samba rice until 30% done. Drain and set aside as we will cook in dum method.
Prepare the paste:
Soak melon seeds in warm water for 15 minutes. Then add to the blender and grind it to fine paste. Keep it aside.
Prepare the masala base:
In a heavy-bottomed pan, heat oil and ghee. Sauté sliced onions until golden.
Add aromatics:
Stir in ginger-garlic paste and green chilies. Cook until the raw smell disappears.
Combine yogurt and herbs:
Add the vegetables and turmeric and saute for 4 to 5 minutes then add whisked yogurt, mint, coriander, lemon juice, and salt. Let everything blend together and thicken slightly. Add 1/2 cup water for the veggies to cook.
Spice it up:
Sprinkle the homemade Arcot garam masala and gently mix.
Layer the biryani:
Layer the 30% cooked rice over the vegetable masala. Top with extra herbs and optionally fried onions.
Dum cook:
Cover tightly and cook on low heat for 15–20 minutes.
Rest and serve:
Let rest for 10 minutes before fluffing. Serve hot.

Notes

* 1 cup = 235 ml

Directions to make Arcot-Style Mild Garam Masala

Dry roast all spices on low flame for 1–2 minutes until aromatic (do not burn). Let cool completely. Grind to a fine powder using a dry spice blender or motor pestle as I did. Store in an airtight jar away from heat and sunlight.

Directions to make Ancient Arcot Nawabi Biryani with step by step images

Wash and soak the rice:
Wash and soak seeraga samba rice for 20 minutes.
Cook the rice:
Add 8 cups water in a pan, ghee and salt. Add soaked rice Cook jeeraga samba rice until 30% done. Drain and set aside as we will cook in dum method.
Prepare the paste:
Soak melon seeds in warm water for 15 minutes. Then add to the blender and grind it to fine paste. Keep it aside.
Prepare the masala base:
In a heavy-bottomed pan, heat oil and ghee. Sauté sliced onions until golden. Stir in ginger-garlic paste and green chilies. Cook until the raw smell disappears.
Combine, Layer and Cook the biryani:
Add the cut vegetables and turmeric. Saute for 3 to 4 minutes then add whisked yogurt, melon seeds paste, mint, coriander, lemon and juice, and salt. Let everything blend together and thicken slightly. Add 1/2 cup water for the veggies to cook. Sprinkle the homemade Arcot garam masala and gently mix. Layer the 30% cooked rice over the vegetable masala. Cover tightly and cook on low heat for 15–20 minute. Let rest for 10 minutes before fluffing. Serve hot.

Close-up of Arcot Nawabi Biryani with fluffy jeeraga samba rice topped with fried onions, mint, and rose petals for a royal finishing touch.

Serving Suggestion

Pair with authentic brinjal raita, cucumber pachadi, or a light tamarind pachadi. Garnish with rose petals or a drizzle of kewra water for the true Nawabi touch.

Pro Tips

Always sauté vegetables lightly to remove excess moisture.
Cook yogurt carefully to avoid curdling.
The homemade Arcot-style garam masala is the very soul of this biryani — don’t skip it or substitute it with store-bought garam masala powder! Its delicate, aromatic blend is what sets this dish apart.
Let the biryani rest after dum for the best texture.

FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions)

1. Can I make this Arcot saiva biryani without yogurt?

You can substitute with just melon seed paste or a mild coconut milk base, but yogurt offers the closest historical taste.

2. Can I make this Arcot vegetable biryani vegan?

Yes! Replace ghee with oil and use melon seed paste only instead of yogurt.

3. How is this different from other vegetable/ saiva biryanis?

This biryani is mild, fragrant, and built on historical Arcot royal flavors — no tomato, no heavy masalas, just delicate spices and native vegetables.

Other Biryani recipes